Types of Makeup and Procedure

TYPES OF MAKE-UP:

Daytime make-up:

            A very soft, natural – looking effect is best for daytime.  The make up should enhance the natural beauty but should not appear artificial. For office settings/goers, make up tones should be slightly warm (pink) to offset the effects of fluorescent lighting in the office.

Evening Make-up:

            The principles for evening make up are the same as for daytime make up.  However, more color can be used on the cheeks and lips and around the eyes to counter act the effect of artificial lighting on the face. Frosted colors may be used on the cheeks and around the eyes.  Gold and silver eye color may also be used on the eyelids. Artificial lashes may be longer for evening wear.

Glamour Make up:

            This makeup is more elaborate and exotic than is the usual daytime or evening make up. Eyebrows may be winged (or) arched in a dramatic fashion. Eyeliners may be wider and the eye lashes longer.  Eyeliners tend to vary with the fashion trend.  Colors, too may be used in an unusual manner. A mixture of golds, silvers, bright blues, browns, pinks, greens and whites may be applied to the eye area.  The cheeks may be devoid of color or may be covered with intense color. Lip colors usually blend with the check color. To complete the high fashion or trend look successfully the hair style and wardrobe must be compatible. Trend make up techniques change to keep up with new trends in fashion.

Materials:

1. Head band 
2. Disposable neck strips 
3. Make up drape 
4. Spatula 
5. Cotton 
6. Wet sanitizer 
7. Towels 
8. Facial cleanser 
9. Moisturizer 
10. Sponges 
11. Skin lotion or astringent 
12. Foundation 
13. Cheek colour 
14. Lipstick 
15. Eye shadow 
16. Eye brow pencil 
17. Eye liner 
18. Eye brow brush 
19. Lip liner pencil 
20. Mascara 
21. Orange wood stick 
22. Face powder 
23. Assorted brushes

Procedure for applying makeup:

1. Cleanse hands and drape the client. 
2. Use a neck strip around the hairline.  So that the head covering does not touch the client’s skin. If using a short makeup drape, place a neck strip under the neckband of the drape. 
3. Cleanse the face and neck thoroughly with cleansing cream or lotion. Warm the cleanser slightly by working it between your fingers.  Apply the cleanser to client’s face and neck. 
4. Remove the cleanser from the face and neck with cotton pads. 
5. Moisten cotton pads and apply an astringent (for oily skin) or a skin lotion (for dry skin) to the face and neck.  This will remove all traces of cleanser.  Apply moisturizer. 
6. Place a small amount of foundation in the palm of the hand. Apply a few dots to the cheeks, nose, forehead, and chin.  Spread the foundation with a makeup sponge and blend carefully.  Make sure to select the foundation color according to the client’s color key palette.  If corrective shading is necessary, apply the correct shade of foundation is required. 
7. Apply cheek color, with a cotton – tipped orangewood stick or cotton swab, remove either cream or liquid rouge from the container. Place dots of color along the lower ridge of the cheekbone.  The cheek color should be placed in the “apple” of the cheek (The “apple” is the pouch formed when you smile). With the finger tips, blend the cheek color up and out along the cheekbones to the hairline. Select a complementary cheek colour from the color key palette. Black women should use berry colors – a light tone for those with lighter skins and a dark berry for those with darker skins.
   
   a)  Place cheek color as outlined above, beginning at least ½ inch away from the nose.
   b) Do not blend cheek color into the eye socket area.
   c) Check color should not extend on the cheeks below the top of the lips. 
   d) If using a powdered blusher, apply face powder first.  Use a stiff brush to apply the blusher.
8. Apply eye shadow with a cotton tipped orange wood stick, remove a small amount of shadow from the container.  Place it on the back of the hand. With the fingertip or a disposable applicator, apply the shadow to the upper eyelid. Blend it out to the corner of the eye or use a crayon and apply to the lid.  Smudge the edges for a softer look. 
9. Place face powder in the palm of one hand. With a dome brush, apply the powder to the client’s face. Remove excess powder with clean cotton or a clean sable brush.  Powder helps set creamy make up and gives it a matte finish.  If using powder blusher apply the face powder before step 7. 
10. Apply eyeliner, if desired with a sharp eyeliner pencil, or with a small brush and liquid eyeliner, draw a fine line as close to the eyelashes as possible. Sharpen the pencil before each use as a sanitary measure.  When using eyeliner on the upper and lower lids, use a lighter shade on the lower lid.  At the outer corner of the eye, the lines may be turned up slightly.  Strip eyelashes can be applied at this point, if desired. The eyeliner helps hide the base of the lashes. 
11. Measure the eyebrows. 
    a)    Place an eyebrow pencil diagonally from the flare of the nose and past the outside corner of the eye and mark a light dot on the skin at the brow. This measurement determines the outside of the brow.
    b)    Hold the pencil at the inner corner of the eye and mark the skin above this point. This determines the inside of the brow.  The inner and outer edges of the brows should be at the same level. 
    c)  The highest part of the brow should be above the outside edge of the iris of the eye when the client is looking forward.
12. Apply eyebrow pencil.  Lightly draw short, hair like strokes with a sharp eyebrow pencil. Remember to sharpen pencil before each use a safety precaution.  Use several shades of pencil to achieve a natural looking effect. 
13. Reapply face powder over the entire face.  Dust off the excess with a soft brush or a cotton ball.  Brush down lightly on the face, because the facial hair grows down.  Brush the brows with an eyebrow brush. Face powder helps set the makeup. 
14. Apply mascara.  Ask the client to look forward. Apply mascara with a disposable mascara brush to the upper lashes by stroking from underneath.  To apply mascara to the bottom lashes, stroke down from the top.  If artificial strip lashes were applied, brush mascara on them if desired. Hold the center of the eyebrow to protect your client. 
15. Apply lipstick, first outline the lips with a lip liner pencil or a lip brush.  If using a lip brush, remove some lipstick from the container with the spatula.  Draw a fine line of lip color to outline the lips.  Add more lip color to the brush. Ask the client to open the mouth and hold the lips tant.  Apply more color until the lips are completed filled in. Blot off the excess lipstick with a tissue.  A cotton swab may be used to apply lip color if desired – black women should outline the lips with a light brown pencil.
16. Optional: Lightly mist the face with water.  This step helps set the make up and gives the skin a dewly appearance.